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Kobe and Kyoto: Luminarie and Kobo-San

Lots of photos this blog post! Winter vacation is starting soon, so I'll have the time to write some more in-depth posts about life in Japan. I still haven't talked about bugs or garbage, for instance, and now that I've been inside of Japanese schools for almost an entire term, I have a better grasp of how to compare them with American schools. So stay tuned over the next couple of weeks for those posts!

Onwards, then, to some photos!

Kobe

A few weeks ago I was in the city of Kobe for an evening, enjoying all-you-can-eat Brazilian barbecue. It was my first time to get a chance to wander Kobe, if only for a little bit. Kobe is the next-biggest city in this region of Japan after Himeji, and it is about 30-40 minutes away by train. It is also the nearest place to us that has Mexican food! I really miss burritos...

Anyway, the photos I took in Kobe were taken via my iPhone, since my camera was in need of a good charging, so the quality is not the best. These photos below are from a shopping area known as the "Mosaic," which was right next to the ocean!




After stuffing ourselves silly on all-you-can-eat meat, everyone in my group decided to go visit the Luminarie, which is an annual Christmas-lights exhibition reminiscent of the Phoenix Zoo Lights. It was extremely crowded, due to it being the first Saturday that the lights were available for viewing. It also stretched for block after city block, and there was no cost to view the lights. The lights were massive! And very pretty!








Kyoto

On the 21st of every month in Kyoto there is a really massive flea market held at Toji Temple; this flea market is named "Kobo-San." (Check this link for a bit more historical information on this event!) And since December 21st was a Saturday, I made plans for the last month to go! 

This involved taking a 6:25 rapid train to Kyoto, which took about 1 hour and 30 minutes. Toji-Temple is about a 15 minute walk from Kyoto Station! I arrived at the market at about 8:20, and since many of the stalls were still setting up, I took the opportunity to buy a ticket and wander around the Toji Temple grounds. It was a drizzly day, with the rain light but constant, so the photos are not of an ideal quality. However, the temple was absolutely stunning, especially since a few of the trees were still hanging onto their autumn leaves. 












The ticket for exploring Toji-Temple was good for the whole day, which ended up being a really great decision, because whenever the press of the crowds of shoppers got to be too much, I could take refuge in the peaceful gardens--and it made for a nifty shortcut. 

Kobo-san is famous for its monthly average of about 1,000 vendors and cheap prices on high quality antiques and handcrafted goods. If you're looking for a bargain, this is the market to visit. People come from all over Japan to buy and sell goods at Kobo-san every 21st of the month. 

Because I got to the market so early, I was able to get some really good deals on kimonos. My Japanese is decent enough that I can manage to haggle semi-effectively. I was able to get a gorgeous, almost-perfect-condition silk kimono for 4,000yen ($40) instead of the original 8,000yen ($80) (which, to be honest, was still a very good deal). That particular shop-owner's wife got pretty angry at her husband for letting me get such a good deal! 

Other shops had piles of used kimono for 1,000yen each ($10), and as the crowds got bigger, you started to see swarms of old ladies tearing through the piles of silk and heavy cotton. There were all sorts of handmade goods for sale, food stands galore, and stalls that were really specialized. There was one store selling harnesses for paralyzed dogs; another store selling saws and knife blades; you could get palm readings and foot massages at some of the stalls. 

It was easy to get lost maneuvering through the maze of stores. Quite a few times it became difficult for me to tell if I had gone by a particular aisle before or not. There were shrines and Buddhist monks in the middle of things, too, since not everyone visiting Toji Temple came for the shopping. It probably took me over 4 hours to fully explore the market, and by that point I was literally unable to carry anymore. I have learned the hard way that kimono are very heavy! Although the last second decision to buy a stunningly-beautiful-and-freakishly-cheap bonsai didn't help matters much. 

Anyway, some not-so-great photos of the kimonos I purchased laid out in my apartment:


This kimono was only 1,000yen ($10), and minus a few loose threads and small stains, is in pretty much mint condition. The obi, or belt, is silk, in perfect condition, and was only 3,000yen ($30). 



The bonsai! I have it set up next to my laptop. It was only 1,500yen ($15)! I had to double check the price with the shopkeeper, because I couldn't believe it. When people walking nearby heard the price, they stopped and began to look at the other bonsai for sale. It came with the pot, though I have a paper towel underneath it until I can acquire a plate to catch the water drainage. 


I believe, after examining it, that this kimono was once owned by a Geisha. The sleeves drag almost to the floor, and the quality of the silk is absolutely stunning! The only damage I can find is some slight tears in the fabric underneath the armpits. Paying 8,000yen ($80) for this kimono would have been a bargain; getting it for 4,000yen ($40) was a steal. No wonder his wife was angry at him! 


A closeup of the pattern on the sleeves. This kimono is just stunningly ornate!


I've never worn a kimono before, and I'm still missing a lot of the required elements; but by having acquired the kimonos themselves and the obi, I've purchased the most expensive parts of this traditional Japanese ensemble. I'll look into acquiring the rest of what I need (the under-kimono, the rope ties, the sandals, and other accessories), and look into finding lessons on how to put one of these things on. I've already heard that a friend's aunt was once a teacher on the art of wearing kimonos, and that I could get lessons from her! 

I'm making plans to visit Kobo-san again June 21st, which will also be a Saturday. This time, I went alone, but it looks like I will have some very excited company joining me the next time. If anyone is ever looking to visit Japan, I really recommend timing your visit to include a 21st-of-the-month, so that you can visit Kobo-san. It was a very unique experience! 

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